No Schoolgirls Here: Study's Autumn 2011 Collection at NY Fashion Week
The theme was reminicent of the first days of class, but Tara St. James’ Autumn 2011 collection for her label, Study, was as far from schoolgirl as one can get and still include shiny red apples in the presentation.
Yes, apples! The full-on sensory experience included models walking out among school chairs and a desk, on which they each placed a fruit, before taking up positions on the stage so we could all take a closer look. Moody music and a room scent by A Perfume Organic wafted through the very crowded space. (Turns out the fantastic blend of Cumin, Cedar, Anise, Styrax, SeaBuckthorn Berry, Myrrh, Black Pepper, Clary Sage, Basil and more will be available as the “Study perfume” in September).
St. James used a variety of fabrics in her collection, including organic cottons and alpacas, but also tried out some less-known materials, including a recycled ultrasuede and an ethereal fabric made from wild silkworm cocoons from Madagascar (the material was introduced to the designer by Summer Rayne Oakes, through her eco fabrics resource, Source4Style).
St. James also utilized some vintage and overstock wools, and a hemp/silk mix to round out the textures. Manufacturing almost the entire collection in NYC, the designer also practiced zero-waste pattern-making (and where there was extra fabric, a collaborating Parson’s student, Hannah Learner, used the scraps to make slouchy patchwork jackets that were also shown).
The zero-waste recycled ultrasuede batwing jacket is lined with the collection’s signature modern plaid pattern, which popped up on several tops and linings.
In the foreground, a peek at one of the Hannah Learner patchwork jackets.
This diaphanous skirt is made from 4,000 wild silkworm cocoons. The light moved through the gauzy browns and golds, which were richly hued and totally unique.
A zero-waste patterned dress was made with vintage double-knit fabric and a saucy row of buttons down the front.
This cropped blouse is knit with the ‘yarn’ created from recycled ultrasuede.
A sweet vintage fabric is made modern by styling it as a racerback tank with a low-cut bodice.
A hemp/silk wrap trench jacket gets one dressed and out the door with just one layer.
See more images from the collection at Ecouterre.
All Photos by Starre Vartan.
Starre Vartan
Starre Vartan is founder and editor-in-chief of Eco-Chick.com and the author of the Eco-Chick Guide to Life. She's also a freelance science and environment writer who has published in National Geographic, CNN, Scientific American, Mental Floss, Pacific Standard, the NRDC, and many more. She lives on an island in Puget Sound with her partner and black cat. She was a geologist in her first career, and still picks up rocks wherever she goes.
